Niacinamide in skincare: what it can and cannot do

Niacinamide has become one of the most discussed ingredients in contemporary skincare. Much of that discussion conflates what it is capable of as a cosmetic active with claims it cannot support. This note sets out what the evidence shows and where the boundaries of claim lie.

What niacinamide is

Niacinamide is a water-soluble form of vitamin B3 (nicotinamide). It participates in cellular energy pathways and has been evaluated in cosmetic research across several areas: barrier support, visible tone balance, sebum regulation and daily resilience. It is multifunctional in the sense that it has more than one evaluated cosmetic mechanism — not in the sense that it does everything.

What the evidence shows

Published cosmetic research supports the following cosmetic claims when niacinamide is used at functional concentrations (typically 2–5%) in appropriate formula vehicles:

• Helps improve the appearance of uneven skin tone with consistent use over 8–12 weeks
• Supports visible reduction in the appearance of enlarged pores over time
• Contributes to barrier comfort and helps skin feel more resilient
• Is generally well-tolerated across skin types, including reactive skin

What the evidence does not support in a cosmetic context

Niacinamide is not a treatment. It does not treat acne, rosacea, hyperpigmentation disorders or any other skin condition. Studies showing dermatological outcomes in clinical settings used pharmaceutical-grade protocols — not cosmetic application conditions. The conditions, concentrations, delivery systems and patient populations in those studies are not transferable to a cosmetic claim.

Concentration: more is not better

There is a persistent assumption in consumer skincare that higher percentages indicate higher efficacy. This is not supported by formula science. Niacinamide above 5% has not demonstrated proportionally greater cosmetic benefit in most skin types. Above 10%, tolerance issues become more likely. Formula context — including pH, other actives and the delivery vehicle — affects how niacinamide performs regardless of the percentage on the label.

Ambernay's position

Ambernay uses niacinamide where the formula objective requires it — not as a label claim. The concentration is calibrated to the formula, not to marketing convention. We do not claim niacinamide delivers outcomes beyond what cosmetic regulation and evidence substantiation allow.

→ Niacinamide — full ingredient profile | → Ingredient Intelligence