Ambernay
Ingredient
Intelligence.
Every ingredient in an Ambernay formula is there for a reason that can be named. Not because it is trending. Not because it photographs well. Because it has a defined function in skin biology, evidence that supports it at the concentration we use, and a tolerance profile that holds up across daily, long-term use.
This library documents how we evaluate ingredients — and what we do not claim they do.
Five criteria for every inclusion
01
Biological function
What the ingredient does in skin physiology, at the relevant site of action.
02
Evidence quality
The standard and design of studies supporting the cosmetic function.
03
Concentration range
The range at which the ingredient performs its function in a finished formula.
04
Tolerance profile
Performance across skin types, including reactive and sensitised skin.
05
Formula compatibility
Interaction with other actives, pH requirements, stability over shelf life.
By category
Humectants, Emollients & Occlusives
The three functional layers of moisturisation. Using all three in sequence produces durable hydration, not surface softness.
Barrier Support & Lipids
Ceramides, squalane, and skin-compatible lipids that contribute to structural integrity and daily resilience.
Comfort & Resilience
Ingredients evaluated for skin comfort, tolerance and stability — particularly relevant in reactive or sensitised skin contexts.
Tone & Surface Texture
From gentle daily-use actives to higher-strength exfoliants — evaluated for visible tone evenness and surface renewal.
Retinoids & Alternatives
Vitamin A derivatives and plant-derived alternatives. Concentration calibrated for daily tolerability over long-term use.
UV Filters
Regulated cosmetic actives. Filter selection, PPD ratio, photostability and application weight all determine real-world protection.
Targeted Actives
Peptides, postbiotics and other functional actives with a defined mechanism — evaluated per sequence, not by category claim.
Trend presence is not a criterion.
An ingredient is not included because it is currently prominent in skincare marketing. Every inclusion follows the same five-point evaluation.
Ingredient library
| Ingredient | Primary function | |
|---|---|---|
| Niacinamide | Barrier support, visible tone balance, daily resilience. Multifunctional form of vitamin B3 evaluated for formula compatibility and tolerance. | Profile → |
| Glycerin | Primary humectant. Draws water into the stratum corneum from lower skin layers and the environment. | Profile → |
| Hyaluronic Acid | Multi-weight humectant. Surface and upper-epidermis hydration, layered with glycerin and panthenol for compounded effect. | Profile → |
| Panthenol | Provitamin B5. Supports hydration and skin comfort; evaluated for formula tolerance across skin types. | Profile → |
| Ceramides | Lipid molecules naturally present in the stratum corneum. Contribute to barrier integrity and intercellular cohesion. | Profile → |
| Squalane | Stable, skin-compatible lipid emollient. Contributes to barrier softness and formula elegance without occlusive heaviness. | Profile → |
| Ectoin | Stress-response molecule from extremophile microorganisms. Evaluated for skin comfort under environmental stress. | Profile → |
| Centella Asiatica | Plant-derived complex (madecassoside, asiaticoside). Evaluated for visible calm and comfort in reactive or sensitised skin. | Profile → |
| Allantoin | Long-established comfort and conditioning active with a favourable tolerability profile across skin types. | Profile → |
| Vitamin C | Water-soluble antioxidant. Evaluated for visible tone evenness; formulation stability is the primary challenge. | Profile → |
| Vitamin E | Lipid-soluble antioxidant. Supports formula stability; frequently paired with Vitamin C for extended performance. | Profile → |
| Alpha Arbutin | Stabilised bearberry-derived active evaluated for visible tone evenness, with a gentler tolerability profile than some brightening actives. | Profile → |
| Azelaic Acid | Multifunctional dicarboxylic acid evaluated for visible tone support. Generally well tolerated relative to stronger acids. | Profile → |
| AHA / BHA / PHA | Three categories of chemical exfoliant — surface renewal (AHA), pore-lining access (BHA), gentler large-molecule exfoliation (PHA). | Profile → |
| Peptides | Short amino acid chains with signal or structural roles. Evaluated per specific sequence — not as a category claim. | Profile → |
| Retinoids | Vitamin A derivatives. Used in the Retinoid Barrier Renewal Cream at a concentration calibrated for daily tolerability. | Profile → |
| Bakuchiol | Plant-derived retinoid alternative. Evaluated for gentler tolerability and daytime-compatible profile relative to retinol. | Profile → |
| Postbiotics | Emerging category supporting the skin’s surface microbial ecosystem and pH balance. Evaluated with particular caution — evidence base still developing. | Profile → |
| UV Filters | Regulated cosmetic actives. SPF value is a function of filter type, concentration, photostability and application weight. | Profile → |
| Moisturisation Architecture | Humectants, emollients and occlusives — the three functional layers and why layering order matters. | Profile → |